One of my goals for my time living in China is to travel as much as I have the chance to. Considering this year as it draws to a close next month, I'd say that I've taken some significant steps in achieving that goal: seven weeks in SE Asia wasn't bad. Neither were any of the two-day trips I've taken to Beijing each month since September.
And then there was the May Holiday. Yup, it just gets better and better. (Sure you don't want to live here?)
May holiday is roughly equivalent to Labor day in the U.S., and like other national holidays, no one has school. My particular school, in a move or either brilliance or laziness--I haven't decided--had decided to extend the holiday to an entire week, not just the three-day weekend that other schools bestow. With a week before me, I set my sights on Beijing for a few days of good wandering and exploring, to really break some new ground in this mammoth city. I also wandered over to Tianjin, another major city just Southeast of Beijing that has a sizable population (some estimates put it around 8-9 million people--small potatoes, really) and some neat architecture. As always, check my Flikr account for the full collection of my favorite photos.
Gate of Heavenly Peace, located on the south side of the Forbidden City, just North of Tiananmen Square.
Mao's (seemingly) eternal visage
The gate from Tiananmen.
During the flag-raising ceremony at Tiananmen.
An army of a different kind: less influential and authoritative, but equal to their task nonetheless.
The Bird's Nest at Olympic Park.
The Water Cube at Olympic Park.
At Nanluogu Xiang, a (clearly) busy street packed with neat shops and good street food. Full of young, hip, snarky Chinese, this area of Beijing seemed less like Mao's backyard and more like Soho in NYC.
Ironically, Nanluogu Xiang, an area that has eschewed the ideals of Mao and his ilk more than most places, is home to one of China's last remnants of the Cultural Revolution. Here, one of Mao's many ubiquitous proverbs: '工业学大庆,农业学大寨,全国学解放军!' ('gongye xue daqing, nongye xue dazhai, quang guo xue jiefang jun!'), which means: 'For industry study Daqing, for agriculture study Dazhai, for the whole nation study the People's Liberation Army!'
Another slogan from the Cultural Revolution, saying, '大立无产阶级' ('da li wuchan jieji'), meaning: 'establish the proletariat'.
Many of Tianjin's buildings, like this one, are distinct reminders of a bygone era marked by strong European influence and control in the city.
However that era of foreign influence in Tianjin might be considered by the Chinese, one thing is clear: it has left an indelible mark on the city's architecture. Strewn with European-style buildings of antiquity, many modern buildings are constructed to continue--or at least mimic--the architectural environs establish about a century ago by Western countries.
The view of the river-front promenade, coming from the train station. The modern structure at left is a bridge--it's proximity to the traditional hotel at center serves as an example of Tianjin's fusion of the old and new.
Arguably Tianjin's most iconic building, this impressive bit of design accents the sky in a way that only a cucumber might, should that cucumber be several hundred meters tall...and made of glass and steel.
Historical Tianjin. Well, pseudo-historical. Aesthetically authentic (as far as I can tell) at the least, this busy section of the city has been faithfully recreated to resemble a more traditional China that, at one time, had been neglected in the name of modernity.
The modern, uber-commercialized, Times Square-esque section of the city. Basically, a whole bunch of people and a whole bunch of stuff that China's burgeoning class of nouveau riche can spend their money on. The U.S. has many good things to offer the world--its hyper-commercialism, however, isn't one of them.
Quite possibly the best example I've seen of China's ever-present flirtation with copycat-ism. "Modeling" successful ideas and products from Western companies--or in many cases, blatantly copying the names, products, and ideas of those Western companies--the rampant problem (according to Western companies) of infringing on copyrights is a source for much debate, finger wagging, and humor. Want an iPood mp3 player or a Blockberry phone (endorsed by Obama, no less!)? Look no further.
Look closely.
Never far from the hearts and minds (or the computers and cell phones) of the Chinese, Big Brother keeps vigilant watch over its many subjects. Here, in unabashed declaration, the real world of China acknowledges--nay, embraces--its close proximity to the fictional world of Orwell's masterpiece.*
*I say this in jest, of course. The sad reality is that Big Brother is probably more apt a description than I wish to believe.
This was an enjoyable trip that stretched me in new ways. Namely, I learned that it is possible to navigate China by yourself with relatively limited knowledge of Chinese, although I will say that it isn't easy. This country was not meant for backpackers. That's just the way it is. Housing is limited for cheap traveling, not to mention there's an almost complete lack of other travelers, or even people who speak English (obviously). If you've ever spent time backpacking, you'll know that the encounters with other travelers is an enjoyable, and sometimes necessary (for your sanity), part of the experience. After five or six days devoid of significant encounters with others, I was glad to return home.
On the positive side, I spent a good five or six days without any major mishaps, handled hotels, trains, buses, and even an occasional "conversation" with locals. That is to say, I understood about 20% of what they said, but they just kept talking to me anyway. You have to admire the Chinese--they just stick with it. You might know three words, but they're going to talk to you. Always an enjoyable and humorous encounter.
It was a wonderful trip and I have no regrets--I would gladly do it again. As I spend more time living here, I look forward to more chances to travel in this incredible, fascinating, beautiful country. Stay tuned...
...and stay tuned for more frequent posts. I have so many little things I want to share--little posts, really. Be sure to check back frequently to see all the news posts I'll be putting up in the closing month.
Until later.
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