...and other descriptions of my seven-week backpacking trek through Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand. Yes, dear readers, the time has come, the post you've waited so long for has indeed arrived. Your ability to ignore my procrastination, sluggishness and, yes, apathy continued devotion and loyalty to checking my blog for this particular update has paid off.
I've pondered how epic post this might be, considering the wealth of stories, anecdotes, adventures, and near-death experiences I have to share. For my more anxious readers (i.e., mom, because that's her job, I guess) I should note that the term "near-death" here is used loosely. Unless you consider riding* a volcano something trivial. Of course, when I say "epic", I am referring to the marathon-like chunk of time you'd need to devote to reading it. And you know me. I don't skimp on the words. It would be a feast of words, the Mount Everest of posts, my magnum opus.
But I don't want to write that much, and you don't have time to read that much. How could you? So, in the interest of time and plausibility and maybe a little laziness (hey, you try summarizing something like this!), I have decided to give you more of a visual summary. Considering the task of wading through the 2000+ photos I took to dwindle them down to only about 45, I'd say I did pretty well for myself. And honestly, choosing which photos to post probably took as much time as succinctly chronicling the entire trip would have, so here's to epic tasks.
I've broken the post down into broad categories and tried to choose pictures that give a good, rounded summary of the trip, ones that will let me dish out tiny morsels of intrigue and adventure to whet your appetite so that you simply must Skype me to ask me more in person (re: you need to chat with me in person!). I've posted an even larger number of pictures (about 150) on my Flikr account, so be sure to check out my photostream to see the complete set of my favorite photos from the trip.
Ok, let's do this.
*more precisely, standing on a hillside about 1km away
Encounters with animals
Some were friendly, some were mischievous. Some were feisty, some were docile. And some were eaten (ah, but not any endangered or protected ones, as the pictures might suggest).
With a Macaque at the Monkey Sanctuary in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Friendly? Maybe. Narcoleptic? Definitely. These little guys were so habituated to the visitors they (clearly) had no problem getting close. They also had no problem digging throughout any crevice in your body to find coveted fruit.
Malaysian Borneo is filled with mostly rainforest. Surprise, surprise, it was also filled with lots of animals and plants and the dreams of biologists. We spent about five days at Gunung Mulu National Park exploring the surrounding rainforest and world-renown caves. The flagship cave, Deer Cave, is known for the nightly exodus of the cave's three million or so bats (seen above) as well as its sheer size (an entrance of about 140m high).
Rainforest canopy skywalk.
One of the many rainforest creatures that was as large as my hand. Walking around the forest at night was erie, but peaceful and filled but beautiful, bizarre life. Also, I probably flirted with death on multiple occasions, as I no doubt crossed paths with more than a few poisonous insects/snakes/panthers. (Ok, there are no poisonous panthers...and this particular rainforest didn't really have panthers.)
At the bird sanctuary in Kuala Lumpur. An impressive collection of beautiful tropical birds...locked in cages. To be fair, it was a pretty amazing place and most birds were given relatively free reign, except those poor parakeets. Sorry little ones.
Hornbill
Elephants in Chiang Mai, Thailand. We spent the day feeding, riding, and washing them. It's a humbling experience, to stand beside and touch an animal that could easily crush you.
Amazing creatures...gentle, feisty, docile, hungry. All at the same time. If you have the means, I recommend you get one. (But not really. You would not believe how many bananas they eat!)
Art and Architecture
Seven weeks, three countries, and a host of beautiful, intricate, and historical art and architecture. From centuries-old temples to one of the world's tallest buildings, this trip was a visual feast of the old and new, the flashy and the nuanced.
From the outside of a Hindu temple in Ubud, Bali. This charming town had a temple on every block.
The incredible stone reliefs at Borobudur Temple in Java, Indonesia. One of the largest Buddhist temples in the world, the massive complex, covered in one impressive carving after another, left nothing to be desired.
The ornate decor at the Grand Palace complex in Bangkok.
Petronas Towers--the fifth tallest building(s) in the world--in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Culture
A rich array of culture awaited us as we (the two other teachers at my school who traveled with me) wandered around SE Asia. Like any cultural experience, this trip was a submersion into a world of new foods, sights, sounds, and smells. Sometimes I saw things that I didn't understand. Other times, I ate things I didn't understand. It's all part of the experience. That's what I tell myself.
At a traditional Hindu dance in Bali. That's fire the friendly god just kicked at us. It shows us they care.
At Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia has a significant Chinese diaspora and we happened to be here (in KL) during the Chinese New Year. Kind of a big deal (although certainly not as big a deal had we been in China for the new year.)
Some children, encountered during my solo trek through Northern Thailand, display the traditional garb of their ethnic group. Collectively known as Hill Tribes, the various ethic minorities found in this region are divided into several groups and sub-groups and offer a rich mix of tradition, food, color and aw,comeon,justlookatme-ness.
Conversing with the local color at a Hindu temple in Bali. These girls are donning typical traditional wear for Hindu women--for the Balinese brand of Hinduism, that is--and it is a very common sight in Bali, considering Hindu's prevalence on the island.
Food
While certainly a staple of any culture, food deserves a category in its own right. As for this trip, Thai food takes the cake in my book (although it still can't touch Chinese food). Indonesian and Malaysian food are essentially the same with a few differences, and though they are not the culinary powerhouse that China is, the cuisine was nothing to be disappointed in. Nasi Goreng is the national dish of Indonesia (but is common in Malaysia too)--a simple but tasty dish that I ate more times than I can count.
Peppers for sale at one of the many street markets we encountered. The identity of the food I ate was often a mystery (usually a tasty mystery), but there was little doubt that it was absolutely fresh.
Street food in Bangkok. Considering all the food I ate, there's still nothing like Thai street food. It's amazing how good something so cheap and easy can really be. China is the same way...I think they are on to something. Come on, America. Figure this out*, won't you?
*I.e., operate outside health code laws and regulations, as the street vendors in these countries no doubt would do should they be located in the US. But who cares, really? It's good. And cheap. And when it's that good and that cheap, I don't care where it came from and neither would you.
Encounters with Religion
Indeed the pluralistic trip, our travels began in Bali (almost entirely Hindu) and brought us through Java (primarily Muslim, like most of Indonesia), onto Sulawesi (containing a significant Christian population, especially where we were), then to Malaysia (mostly Muslim like Indonesia), and finally to Thailand (about 90% Buddhist). While much of the religion we encountered was observed culturally (as opposed to piously), we were nevertheless immersed in worlds entirely different from our own in the US or China.
Bathers at a Hindu temple in Bali. Most people here are not practicing Hindus but participate in the ritual bathing practices out of a sense of cultural or traditional piety.
Another Hindu temple in Bali. This particular temple is of note--so much so that it appears on the back of the 50000 Rupiah bill. The Rupiah is Indonesia's currency, and yes, 50,000 is not a typo. With an exchange rate of roughly 9000 Rp to 1 US Dollar, you can imagine the fun we had while dishing out 100,000 Rp bills. At one point in the trip (when I knew I'd be unable to visit an ATM for weeks and had to stock-pile) I was carrying 4.5 million in cash. And you never thought I'd be a big spender...until you realize that's about 500 US Dollars. Ha.
Borobodur Temple in Java. Certainly one of the more impressive sites I've ever seen, this historic site was also a goldmine for my camera.
The problem with the immensity of this temple is the inability to capture it in its entirety. I hope this shot can at least convey in the slightest sense the size. Taking into account that this entire temple is made of stone--stone that's entirely covered in carved relief--one has to wonder at the amazing achievements of humanity. Too bad it's in honor of something that doesn't exist.
The upper-most level of the temple was dotted by dozens of stupas, pictured above.
A row of Buddhas found at Wat Doi Sethep, arguably Northern Thailand's most renown and decadent Buddhist temple. Located on a mountain west of Chiang Mai, the temple is a nice 3-4 hour escape from the city and provides an excuse for adventuresome 24-year-olds to rent a motorbike so they can visit (and then drive speedily around mountainous roads to feel alive again).
At Wat Phra Chettuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Ratchaworamahawihan, but I'll call it Wat Pho like everyone else. Here is Thailand's largest reclining Buddha.
Encounters with Jesus.
In Manado (a city in the northern tip of the island of Sulawesi, Indonesia) the local Christian majority have erected the 40-meter-high statue of Jesus. Flying. (To me, at least.)
A 40 meter statue of Jesus, flying over a volcano. Need I say more? Obviously, I felt it necessary to give Jesus ten.
A taste of paradise
You can't visit this part of the world without encountering, both intentionally and unintentionally, the paramount beauty of its landscapes. Lush green rice fields nestled against active volcanoes. Mind-boggling cave formations that represent millions of years of history. Sunsets on the "perfect" beach, complete with white sand, blue-green water, droopy coconut trees, and a diversity of ocean life unmatched almost anywhere. Yes, I think I've seen it all...
Terraced rice fields in Bali.
The ocean just behind you, misty mountains and volcanos in front of you, and food growing in between. Not bad. Not bad at all.
Shot of the quintessential beach paradise, complete with nostalgic and presently unoccupied (signifying the kind of stubborn timelessness that exists despite a fast-paced world) boat operated by a father and his cute son.
Sunset at Paradise Resort (the actual name of the place), one of the many resorts found at the Togean islands. Known for their diving, the Togeans are a must-see for any serious diver (or snorkeler, in my case) who happens to be in Sulawesi, Indonesia.
Interestingly, my favorite shot of the sunset from the whole trip (and perhaps of any sunset I've ever shot) does not include the beautiful colors that are so often the reason we all love these kinds of pictures in the first place.
One of the many spectacular caves of Gunung Mulu park. Entirely unique in their shape and formation, the stalagmites and stalactites (seen here) characteristic of caves leaves one feeling amazed, and relatively young.
Adventures, and other things your mother wouldn't let you do
My appetite for adventure and exploration was certainly satiated in this trip. A number of risky/perilous experiences, some intentionally experienced by me, others thrust upon me by fate and circumstances, ensured that this trip would be trip of firsts...and lasts (e.g., that's the last time I pull on a Monkey's tail while it is feeding.)
We visited an active volcano, and I'm not going to lie: it was pretty cool. I mean hot. I mean...whatever. Here you see bellowing ash clouds marking the latest eruption. The best part was that we could clearly hear, even from a kilometer away, the rumbling, gurgling (can volcanos gurgle?) sounds emitted from the crater.
Our timing for a visit was pretty good, as only a few weeks prior there had been a significant eruption and just two weeks after our visit there was yet another significant eruption. Here you see the aftermath of the first eruption: the ground covered in thick layers of grey ash for kilometers around as downed and snapped trees marked the landscape--a reminder that ash is heavy. (Ha! Of course ash is heavy.)
Caving in Gunung Mulu park. The park had a number of advanced caving opportunities, complete with tight squeezes, bats, water, mud, bottomless crevices, ropes, and death...um, but not so much on that last one. We enjoyed chances to do some caving as much as possible.
Sunset in the mountains of Northern Thailand. I took this during my solo motorbike trek, a trip spanning 600km and two days. Probably the highlight of the entire trip, I absolutely loved renting a bike and just exploring the country on my own, away from other tourists. This was certainly the road less traveled, and I loved every windy, curvy moment of it. After the obligatory crash while visiting Wat Doi Suthep the previous day, I was all set and was on my way. (The "crash" was more like a cool slide, really. I'd like to think I did more damage to the road than the road did to me...but that's not the case. But I picked myself right up, and only had to pay about $10 to cover the damage.) This was a life-goal of mine--to rent a motorbike and just hit the road for some uncharted exploring in a foreign country. I'm thrilled I got to accomplish it.
Other great adventures in the trip included my first attempt surfing (not a bad way to bring in the new year: surfing in Bali), bungee jumping in Thailand, and the countless experiences traveling from one destination to the next. If there was ever a time I neared death, it was probably during one of the many bus, van, or car trips I took. Some of these drivers are fearless, probably because of some kind of drug. They smoke copious amounts, listen to terrible music, and are unapologetic in their pursuit of speed. And considering the amount of traveling I did, it's almost amazing there were no incidents. In total, I flew on 14 flights, rode on about 6 bus trips (all around 10 hours long), had several car and van rides (many also lasting 8-10 hours), several boat/ferry rides, countless taxi rides, one epic motorbike trip, and even a short trip via elephant. I think I can now say I've utilized almost every conceivable form of transportation.
A survey of different homes
Covering the gamut of SE Asian housing, we encountered it all, from rural village to urban center, from the huts of poor families to the palaces of kings.
The stilt-houses at the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia.
Some of the ornamented pieces found at the Grand Palace in Bangkok, the former residence of Thailand's royal family (who have since moved to another location).
Meeting people
We met lots of people. Many were other travelers like us, usually good for some interesting conversation. Lots and lots of Scandinavians visit Indonesia for some unbeknownst reason, and true to stereotypes, they were are ridiculously tall. We also had many wonderful chances to interact with the locals. Discussions of culture, religion, food, and pastimes brought many new thoughts and ideas to my head. The people in these countries are incredibly kind, friendly, beautiful, and gentle. I learned a lot from them.
Like China, children in less touristy areas were quite intrigued by our foreign presence. "Hey mister!" was a common greeting we received from locals--it is a greeting of friendliness and warmth. And it sounds funny when you hear it every five seconds, especially when the locals say it to foreign women as well as men.
At the a temple in Bali, dressed in traditional garb.
These girls discovered us at Borobudur...
...and many pictures with the tall foreigner ensued.
A clash of sights, sounds, smells, and debauchery.
Bangkok is a fascinating city and there is no doubt I left most of it unturned during my three day stay--maybe I'll have to go back. The problem is, it's just a little too fascinating for a person sometimes. I enjoyed the visit to be sure, but let's get something straight: Bangkok is not for the weary, or the family.
Khoa San Road, where all the backpackers go. The good news: cheap hostels, exciting nightlife, amazing food. The bad news: Khoa San = the gaudy flashiness of Times Square + the crowdedness of the Beijing subway + the debauchery of Vegas + the mindset of frat boys who have just "cut loose." I enjoyed such a rich experience in retrospect, but I can't say I enjoyed being unable to sleep until 4 or 5am each night, distracted alternatively by the drunken clubbers outside the window and the intimate couple in the room next to mine. You know what I mean.
A party boat passes by one of the many temples, marking the interesting intersection of Bangkok's history and religiosity with its modern flare and boisterous attitude.
And there you have it. Seven weeks. Bam.
It was an incredible trip, once in a lifetime kind of thing that I'd definitely do again if I could. But through all the experiences, I was so glad to return to China--to return home. Traveling like this made me realize a few things, namely that it's quite taxing to be on the move, but also that I am a person who enjoys staying in a place long enough to invest. I often felt like such a user--using a place or locale to get my fix and then moving on to the next site, the next town, the next adventure. It made me realize that such a transitory life is not the one for me. I was glad to know China is my home for now and that I can invest here, even if it's only for a few years...or longer.
And the thing is, I couldn't wait to get back here, to China. At times, I was really homesick for China, not the US. I think that says a lot. I belong here, at least for now. I love this place, and the joy I had upon returning to Qinhuangdao and seeing my students and Chinese friends again is a joy I won't soon forget.
So, I'm from the US, but felt homesick for China. You tell me what that means. ;)
